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The 2022 growing season in Anderson Valley was a chaotic symphony of extremes. Following a dry winter, a cool and protracted spring resulted in a later-than-normal budbreak. The summer months progressed steadily on what growers described as cruise control, allowing for healthy canopy growth and high acidity retention. However, this idyllic pace shattered on September 5, when a brutal heat dome descended upon Northern California, driving valley temperatures up to 116 F for five consecutive days. Vineyard crews scrambled, deploying overhead sprinklers to provide evaporative cooling and working tirelessly through the night to protect the fruit. Just as the heat broke, the region was slammed by 2.5 to 3.5 inches of rain, which violently stopped the harvest and forced a nervous waiting period. Fortunately, because the preceding summer had been so cool, the Goldeneye grapes were in an ideal stage of maturity to survive the heat without complete desiccation. Within the producer's historical context, 2022 ranks as a highly competent salvage operation. It is not a legendary, effortless benchmark like 2018 or 2019, but rather a robust, mid-pack vintage that highlights meticulous, well-funded vineyard management. The resulting wine is concentrated and ready to drink now, likely reaching its peak by 2028 before fading.
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Style: Evaluating this on the BLIC framework reveals a wine engineered for immediate, polished appeal. Balance is largely achieved: the 14.2 percent ABV generates warmth but is neatly anchored by elevated, refreshing acidity and medium-plus, velvet-textured tannins, ensuring the components are integrated rather than fighting. Length is medium-plus; the primary cherry flavors drop away somewhat early, but a savory, positively persistent trail of black tea and cedar remains, providing a minor limitation to an otherwise impressive finish. Intensity registers at medium-plus, showcasing a concentrated core driven by late-season heat rather than sheer dry extract. Complexity is moderate to high, effectively integrating bright red fruit with damp underbrush and serious oak spice, avoiding an incoherent jumble of descriptors. Typicity is undeniable; this is a textbook expression of modern, well-funded Anderson Valley Pinot Noir, capturing both the maritime chill of the region and the plush, cellar-driven luxury of its corporate pedigree. The wine pours a vivid ruby in the glass. The aromatic profile begins with focused Bing cherry, wild strawberry, and crushed raspberry, transitioning smoothly into a savory depth of pennyroyal, oolong tea, and sweet saddle leather. On the palate, a supple, fleshy entry gives way to a mid-palate characterized by real energy and lift, where bright blood orange acidity provides tension against the rich fruit. The firm, slightly chewy tannin structure shapes the edges, driving toward a finish accented by nutmeg, cardamom, and a distinct coastal salinity. Evolution in the glass allows the new French oak to recede slightly, revealing faint notes of chanterelle mushroom and damp bramble. This is not a wine for seekers of austere, razor-thin, minimalist Pinot Noir. Buyers trade the raw, unpolished nerve of an avant-garde producer for the reassuring, deeply calculated luxury of a massive winemaking operation. If you crave wild, untamed tension and earth-driven funk at this price point, you are better served hunting down a bottling from Littorai or Arnot-Roberts.
Alcohol: 14.5%
Wine Spectator: 92/100
James Suckling: 92/100
Vinous: 92/100
Decanter: 91/100
Temperature: 14 to 16 C / 57 to 61 F
Decanting: Decant 45 to 60 mins. At 30 mins, red fruit dominates. By 60 mins, oak spice recedes to reveal delicate chanterelle and pennyroyal nuances. Past 120 mins risks dissipating its aromatic tension.
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• Wine Enthusiast 94 Points
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Anderson Valley's cool climate and morning fog create what winemakers call the "Goldilocks zone" for Pinot Noir—cold enough to preserve acidity and delicate aromatics, but warm enough during afternoon sunshine to ripen the fruit properly. It's basically why this region punches so far above its weight compared to warmer California valleys.
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