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The 2024 vintage provides a triumphant narrative arc after the heartbreak of previous years. Following the relentless torrential rains of 2022 and the devastating cyclone damage of 2023, the 2024 growing season emerged as a desperately needed reprieve. The season was characterized by a warm, exceptionally dry summer moderated by the crucial cool nights typical of the Wairarapa region. This permitted a gradual, unhindered ripening trajectory with textbook lignification of the stems. Volumes were noticeably down, representing a persistent sting from the cumulative weather events of the past few years, but the quality achieved in the glass is sublime. Within this producer's modern history, 2024 firmly asserts itself in the top tier of the past decade, capturing a rare intersection of deep fruit intensity and razor-sharp structural acidity. While thoroughly drinkable now for its energetic cut, this is a vintage with the phenolic substance to age gracefully through the end of the decade.
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Style: Assessment begins with undeniable balance: the bracing 7.7 g/L acidity meshes seamlessly with moderate 13 percent alcohol and a calculated degree of lees-derived mid-palate weight. The intensity is profound but inward-looking, trading the loud volume of pyrazines for a tightly wound, mineral-driven core. Complexity is a major strength, as citrus and white floral notes are articulated through multiple vessels, resulting in integrated layers rather than a disjointed fruit salad. The length is exceptional, driven by a lingering, chalky salinity. In terms of typicity, this wine actively rebels against the ubiquitous New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc profile. It is entirely atypical for the broader commercial category, yet it perfectly embodies the precise, terroir-driven typicity of the Martinborough sub-region. This is not a wine for drinkers seeking the immediate, boisterous passionfruit gratification of a standard-issue Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc. Those accustomed to sheer, stainless-steel-driven tropical fruit may find the phenolic chew and subtle barrel-derived textures here austere or demanding. If you simply want uncomplicated, bright poolside refreshment, a peer wine at a similar price, such as Kim Crawford or Oyster Bay, might serve your needs much better. For the modernist critic, however, this wine crackles with energy and lift. It is a vivid, taut expression that demands attention, leveraging its phenolic grip and arrow-like linearity to prove that the grape can yield a wine of structure and consequence.
Alcohol: 13%
Wine Spectator: 93/100
Robert Parker: 92/100
James Suckling: 92/100
Temperature: 10-12 degrees Celsius (50-54 degrees Fahrenheit); do not over-chill or you will dangerously mute the lees-derived complexity.
Decanting: No formal decanting is required, though allowing it 30 minutes in a wide glass unlocks the struck-match reduction and allows the barrel-fermented phenolic texture to expand, transforming the profile from a rigid line of acidity into a far more layered, articulate experience.
Food Pairing:
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Vineyard Details:
• Robert Parker's Wine Advocate awarded the 2024 vintage 92 points, with Erin Larkin praising its lean, complex nose and excellent texture.
• Wine Spectator consistently rates this label highly, with the previous 2023 vintage securing the number 11 spot on their Top 100 list.
• Some commercial reviewers note reservations that the sharp, austere profile and phenolic chew make it a stark departure from typical lush New Zealand styles.
• James Suckling awarded the 2024 vintage 92 points, noting a beautifully mineral and stony finish.
• Erin Larkin observed that the phenolic grip presents an extra dimension of interest and chew, setting it apart from regional norms.
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