Right then, darlings, let's talk about the champagne house that makes my heart positively flutter with its Chardonnay-forward brilliance. Taittinger is the champagne equivalent of a perfectly tailored white dress at a garden party—refined, elegant, and absolutely impossible to ignore. While some houses are busy showing off with their Pinot Noir muscles, Taittinger is over in Reims creating the most gorgeously delicate, floral, and utterly sophisticated bubbles you'll ever have the pleasure of sipping.
This is the house that proves bigger isn't always better, loves. With Chardonnay making up a whopping 40% of their non-vintage blend (compared to the Champagne average of about 30%), Taittinger has carved out a niche as the thinking person's champagne. It's like they're saying, "Yes, we could follow the crowd, but why would we when we can create something this exquisite?" Très intelligent, if you ask me.
And here's the brilliant bit—this is one of the last remaining family-owned champagne houses of significant size. In an industry increasingly dominated by luxury conglomerates, the Taittinger family is still running the show, maintaining their vision of elegant, Chardonnay-focused champagne across generations. That's not just romantic; it's bloody impressive business acumen.
The Chardonnay Philosophy: When Less is Gloriously More
Here's where Taittinger gets properly interesting, darlings. While the average Champagne house uses about 30% Chardonnay in their non-vintage blend, Taittinger cranks it up to 40%. The rest is typically 35% Pinot Noir and 25% Pinot Meunier—just enough of the black grapes to provide structure and complexity, but Chardonnay is undeniably the star of the show.
This Chardonnay dominance creates a signature house style that's immediately recognizable: delicate floral aromatics (think white flowers, peach blossom, acacia), bright citrus notes, remarkable finesse, and aging potential that rivals houses using far more Pinot Noir. It's champagne for people who appreciate subtlety and nuance over power and drama—though don't mistake delicacy for weakness. These bubbles have staying power that would make a marathon runner jealous.
The house owns 288 hectares of prime vineyards (absolutely massive for a Champagne house), with significant holdings in the Côte des Blancs Grand Cru villages of Avize, Cramant, Chouilly, and Oger—basically the Chardonnay holy land. These chalk-rich soils produce Chardonnay with piercing minerality, electric acidity, and the kind of elegance that makes you sit up straighter and use your best manners.
Comtes de Champagne: The Blanc de Blancs That Started It All
The house's calling card and one of the most reliably delicious non-vintage champagnes you can buy. That 40% Chardonnay shines through with white peach, brioche, and almond notes, balanced by the structure of Pinot Noir and the fruity roundness of Pinot Meunier. This is your go-to for celebrations that don't require a second mortgage—elegant enough for special occasions, affordable enough to justify buying multiple bottles.
Produced only in exceptional years, typically with 50% Chardonnay and 50% Pinot Noir from Grand Cru and Premier Cru vineyards. Each vintage tells the story of that particular year, with the Chardonnay providing the elegant framework and the Pinot adding depth and structure. Recent excellent vintages include 2014, 2013, and 2012—all aging beautifully if you've got the patience.
Taittinger Nocturne Sec NV (~$60-70)
For those who fancy a slightly sweeter style, Nocturne (with 17.5g/L residual sugar) offers ripe peach, apricot, and honey notes without being cloying. It's designed for desserts and late-night sipping—hence the name. Not my usual cup of tea (I prefer bone-dry champagne), but it's brilliantly executed and converts many to the slightly sweeter champagne camp.
Comtes de Champagne Blanc de Blancs (~$180-220)
The flagship. The legend. 100% Chardonnay from five Grand Cru villages, aged minimum 10 years. This is champagne that demands your full attention and rewards it with extraordinary complexity. If you're celebrating something truly momentous or trying to seriously impress, this is your weapon of choice.
The Cathedral of Champagne: Taittinger's Historic Cellars
The Taittinger cellars beneath Reims are the stuff of vinous legend, darlings. When the family acquired the 13th-century Abbey of Saint-Nicaise, they didn't just get a building—they got access to ancient Gallo-Roman chalk quarries dating back to the 4th century. These aren't your standard wine cellars; they're a UNESCO World Heritage site and one of the most spectacular aging environments in all of Champagne.
The cellars stretch for nearly 4 kilometers beneath Reims, maintaining a constant 11°C (52°F) with natural humidity that's absolutely perfect for aging champagne. Some sections still feature original Gallo-Roman carvings—you're literally drinking wine aged in spaces that have been used for storage since the Roman Empire. If that doesn't make champagne taste better, I don't know what would.
The abbey connection is particularly significant for the house's identity. The monks of Saint-Nicaise were among the first to cultivate vines in the region, and Taittinger sees itself as continuing that monastic tradition of patience, dedication, and pursuit of excellence. It's a rather lovely bit of historical continuity—from monks making wine for communion to a family house creating some of Champagne's most elegant bottles.
Food Pairing: When Elegance Meets Gastronomy
Taittinger's Chardonnay-forward style makes it absolutely brilliant with food, loves. That delicate structure and bright acidity create partnerships that enhance both the wine and the dish. Here's where these elegant bubbles truly shine:
Pairing: Taittinger Comtes de Champagne Blanc de Blancs
Why it works: When you're serving lobster swimming in a rich, creamy, cognac-spiked sauce, you need a champagne with serious presence. Comtes has the weight and complexity to stand up to the dish's richness while its acidity cuts through the butter and cream like a hot knife. The extended aging brings nutty, brioche notes that complement the lobster's sweetness, and the wine's minerality provides a counterpoint to the sauce's decadence. This is special-occasion eating and drinking at its finest.
Pairing: Taittinger Vintage Brut
Why it works: Scallops are naturally sweet and delicate, requiring a wine that enhances rather than overwhelms. Taittinger Vintage has enough structure to complement the butter sauce but maintains the finesse needed for the scallops themselves. The wine's citrus and white flower notes add aromatic complexity, while the bubbles provide textural contrast to the scallop's tender flesh and the sauce's silky richness. It's an elegant pairing for an elegant dish.
In an era where most major champagne houses are owned by luxury conglomerates (LVMH, Vranken-Pommery, Lanson-BCC), Taittinger's continued family ownership isn't just charming—it's strategically crucial to their identity and quality. When Pierre-Emmanuel Taittinger bought back the house in 2006, he wasn't just making a sentimental gesture; he was ensuring the continuation of a specific vision and style.
Family ownership allows Taittinger to think in generations rather than quarterly earnings reports. That Comtes de Champagne sitting in the cellar for 10+ years before release? That's an investment no profit-focused corporate board would likely approve. The decision to maintain such high Chardonnay percentages when Pinot Noir-dominant champagnes often command higher prices? That's family vision overriding pure market logic.
Currently, the house is led by Pierre-Emmanuel Taittinger and his children Vitalie and Clovis, representing the third and fourth generations of family stewardship. They've proven themselves innovative while respecting tradition—launching the English sparkling wine project Domaine Evremond, investing in sustainable viticulture, and adapting to climate change while maintaining the house's signature elegance. That's how you honor the past while securing the future, loves.
The cellar tour takes you through those spectacular Gallo-Roman chalk quarries I mentioned earlier—it's like walking through a champagne-scented cathedral, complete with vaulted ceilings and ancient carvings. You'll learn about the house's Chardonnay-focused philosophy, see millions of bottles aging in the cool darkness, and understand why these historic cellars are so crucial to the wine's development.
Pro tip: Reims is easily accessible by TGV from Paris (45 minutes), making it possible to do a day trip if you're short on time. Though honestly, why rush? Book a hotel, visit multiple houses, and enjoy proper champagne tourism. You're not going to Champagne to tick boxes; you're going to understand and appreciate one of wine's most complex and fascinating regions.
Domaine Evremond: Taittinger Conquers Kent
In 2015, Taittinger did something rather brilliant and slightly cheeky—they planted vines in Kent, England, partnering with British agent Hatch Mansfield to create Domaine Evremond. Named after Charles de Saint-Évremond, a 17th-century French exile who championed champagne while living in England, the project is both a business venture and a statement about climate change's impact on viticulture.
The site in Kent's Chilham area has similar chalk soils to Champagne's Côte des Blancs, and the increasingly warm English climate now allows Chardonnay and Pinot Noir to ripen reliably. Taittinger planted 69 hectares with the same grape varieties and clones used in Champagne, applying their traditional methods to English terroir. The first commercial release came in 2023—and yes, it's quite good. Not Comtes de Champagne good (give it a few more decades), but definitely a serious English sparkling wine that shows what happens when Champagne expertise meets English determination.
The project represents Taittinger's forward-thinking approach—recognizing that climate change is shifting where quality sparkling wine can be produced and getting in early in a region with serious potential. It's also rather symbolic: the French champagne house that defined blanc de blancs elegance is now making wine in England, showing that wine regions aren't static and innovation requires adapting to changing conditions. C'est formidable!
The Verdict: Elegance Never Goes Out of Style
Taittinger represents something increasingly rare in modern champagne—a large, internationally distributed house that's maintained its family ownership, distinctive style, and commitment to Chardonnay-focused elegance across nearly a century. In a world of champagnes trying to out-power and out-luxury each other, Taittinger remains committed to finesse, restraint, and aging potential.
For wine lovers who appreciate subtlety, complexity, and the kind of champagne that rewards contemplation as much as celebration, Taittinger offers a compelling alternative to the Pinot Noir-dominant powerhouses. And at a time when family-owned champagne houses are becoming endangered species, supporting Taittinger means supporting a model that values long-term vision over short-term profits.
So here's to Taittinger—to ancient cellars and modern vision, to Chardonnay's elegant brilliance, to families who buy back their heritage and secure their future. May they continue making champagne that proves bigger isn't always better, and sometimes the most powerful statement is made with the most delicate touch.