Right then, darlings, let's talk about the estate that made the Old World sit up, take notice, and perhaps have a wee bit of an existential crisis. Penfolds isn't just Australia's most celebrated winemaker—it's the producer that fundamentally changed what the global wine community thought Australian wine could be. Before Max Schubert created Grange in the 1950s, Australian wine was largely dismissed by European critics as enthusiastic but unsophisticated. After Grange? Well, the Aussies had rather brilliantly shown everyone that New World winemaking could achieve the same complexity, ageability, and sheer magnificence as anything from Bordeaux or Burgundy.
Founded in 1844 by Dr. Christopher Rawson Penfold, a physician who believed in the medicinal properties of wine (my kind of doctor, honestly), Penfolds has grown from a small Adelaide vineyard into one of the world's most prestigious wine brands. But it's Grange—originally called Grange Hermitage until the French got a bit tetchy about the name—that transformed Penfolds from a respected local producer into an international icon. Today, Grange is Australia's most collectible wine, regularly fetching $700-$1,000 USD per bottle and commanding even more for legendary vintages. Absolument extraordinaire.
Dr. Christopher and Mary Penfold arrived in South Australia from England in 1844, bringing with them vine cuttings from the south of France. The good doctor established his vineyard at Magill Estate, just outside Adelaide, initially producing fortified wines that he prescribed as "tonics" to his patients. One can only imagine the popularity of his medical practice—"Take two glasses of fortified wine and call me in the morning" sounds rather more appealing than most prescriptions, doesn't it?
By the 1880s, Penfolds had grown substantially under the management of the family's next generation, and the winery began producing table wines alongside its fortified offerings. The estate survived phylloxera, economic depressions, and two world wars, but it wasn't until the mid-20th century that Penfolds would create the wine that would define not just the estate, but Australian fine wine itself.
In 1950, a young winemaker named Max Schubert traveled to Europe on a study tour, visiting the great estates of Bordeaux and spending time in Spain learning about sherry production. What Schubert witnessed in Bordeaux—particularly the long-lived, complex wines of the Médoc—sparked an audacious idea: why couldn't Australia produce wines of similar quality and longevity using Shiraz instead of Cabernet Sauvignon?
Upon returning to Australia, Schubert set about creating an entirely new style of Australian wine. The first experimental vintage of Grange was produced in 1951, using Shiraz grapes from various South Australian vineyards and aging the wine in new American oak barrels—a radical departure from the old Australian oak and larger casks typically used at the time. The wine was powerful, concentrated, and built for serious aging. It was also, initially, rather unpopular.
Here's where the story gets properly brilliant: Penfolds management, utterly baffled by this strange, tannic, expensive wine that nobody seemed to want, ordered Schubert to stop making it in 1957. Did he listen? Did he buggery. Schubert continued making Grange in secret, hiding barrels away and producing tiny quantities until 1960, when early vintages had matured enough to prove his vision correct. Those early Grange vintages, once derided as "crushed ants" and "dry port," were suddenly recognized as extraordinary wines of tremendous complexity and aging potential.
Management reversed their decision, Schubert was vindicated, and Grange went on to become one of the world's most celebrated wines. The 1955 Grange (one of those "secret" vintages) was named a First Growth equivalent by Wine Spectator in 2004, and subsequent vintages have consistently scored 95+ points from international critics. Max Schubert's stubborn refusal to abandon his vision gave Australia—and the entire New World—a wine that could stand proudly alongside Château Latour or Château Margaux. Quelle histoire!
What makes Grange particularly fascinating is Penfolds' multi-vineyard, multi-district blending approach—a philosophy that flies in the face of European terroir-focused winemaking. Rather than celebrating a single vineyard site, Grange is blended from the very best parcels of Shiraz (and sometimes a touch of Cabernet Sauvignon) sourced from various premium vineyards across South Australia, including Barossa Valley, McLaren Vale, Coonawarra, and Adelaide Hills.
This approach allows Penfolds' winemaking team to craft a wine of supreme consistency and quality year after year, selecting only the most exceptional fruit regardless of its origin. It's the Australian answer to Champagne's blending philosophy—creating a house style that transcends vintage variation through masterful selection and blending. Some vintages are 100% Shiraz; others might include up to 15% Cabernet Sauvignon if it improves the final blend. The winemaker's skill lies in knowing exactly which parcels to include and in what proportions.
The result? A wine of extraordinary power, concentration, and complexity. Grange typically shows intense dark fruit (blackberry, plum, black cherry), exotic spices, mocha, dark chocolate, and a signature note of dried herbs and eucalyptus. The texture is voluptuous and rich, with velvety tannins and remarkable length. It's built to age for decades—30, 40, even 50+ years for the best vintages. Drinking young Grange is like meeting someone who hasn't yet grown into their potential; give it 10-15 years minimum, and you'll witness something truly special.
While Grange sits at the pinnacle of Penfolds' portfolio, the estate produces an entire range of exceptional wines under the "Bin" numbering system—a reference to the original storage locations of these wines in the Magill cellars. Each Bin number represents a distinct wine style, and many have become icons in their own right.
The range demonstrates Penfolds' mastery across price points and styles. Whether you're investing in Grange or exploring Bin 28, you're getting wines crafted with the same meticulous attention to quality and consistency. That's rather special, isn't it?
Penfolds' Shiraz-based wines exemplify the Australian style—ripe, powerful, generously fruited, and thoroughly modern. Unlike the more restrained, savory Syrah of the Northern Rhône, Australian Shiraz embraces bold fruit, higher alcohol (typically 14-15% ABV), and the influence of new oak. The climate in South Australia provides abundant sunshine and warmth, allowing grapes to achieve full phenolic ripeness and develop those characteristic notes of black fruit, chocolate, and sweet spice.
American oak—particularly the new barrels used for Grange—contributes vanilla, coconut, and sweet spice notes that complement the ripe fruit beautifully. It's a controversial choice among some traditionalists (the French tend to prefer their own oak, naturellement), but it's become a signature of the Penfolds style. That said, wines like RWT prove that Penfolds can also work brilliantly with French oak when the wine calls for it.
What's particularly impressive is how Penfolds manages to create wines of such power and concentration while maintaining balance and elegance. Lesser producers can make Shiraz that's jammy, overextracted, and fatiguing to drink. Penfolds' wines, even the biggest examples, show finesse, integrated oak, and remarkable length. They're hedonistic without being vulgar, powerful without being overwhelming. It's winemaking at the highest level.
One of Grange's most remarkable characteristics is its extraordinary aging potential. While many modern wines are designed for early consumption, Grange demands—and rewards—patience. The wine's structure, concentration, and acidity ensure it can evolve gracefully for decades, developing tertiary notes of leather, tobacco, dried flowers, and game while retaining its core of dark fruit.
Certain vintages have achieved legendary status among collectors. The 1955 Grange, one of Max Schubert's secret vintages, is considered one of Australia's greatest wines ever made—bottles occasionally appear at auction for $50,000+ USD. The 1971 Grange is another benchmark, showing extraordinary longevity and complexity. More recent legendary vintages include 1986, 1990, 1996, 2004, 2008, and 2010—all rated 98-100 points and aging beautifully.
Penfolds even offers a rather brilliant "Re-Corking Clinic" service, where owners of older Grange (and other premium Penfolds wines) can bring their bottles to be assessed, topped up if necessary, and re-sealed with fresh corks. It's a testament to the estate's commitment to their wines' longevity and their collectors' investments. Très classe.
Penfolds' powerful, fruit-forward Shiraz demands bold, flavorful food that can stand up to the wine's intensity. Fortunately, Australian cuisine—with its emphasis on grilled meats, robust flavors, and multicultural influences—provides perfect matches.
Penfolds' importance extends far beyond producing exceptional wines. The estate fundamentally changed the global perception of Australian wine, proving that New World producers could create wines of extraordinary quality, complexity, and longevity. Max Schubert's vision and stubbornness in creating Grange paved the way for generations of Australian winemakers to pursue excellence without apology.
The multi-vineyard blending philosophy pioneered by Penfolds has influenced producers worldwide, demonstrating that thoughtful selection and blending can create wines that transcend single-site limitations. While terroir-focused winemaking certainly has its place (and I adore a great Burgundy or Barolo as much as anyone), Penfolds proved there's more than one path to vinous greatness.
Today, Penfolds remains at the forefront of Australian fine wine, continuing to innovate while respecting tradition. The estate's commitment to quality at every level—from entry-level Bin wines to the iconic Grange—ensures that whether you're spending $40 or $1,000, you're getting a wine crafted with expertise, passion, and an unwavering dedication to excellence.
So here's to Penfolds, to Max Schubert's brilliant stubbornness, and to the wine that proved Australian Shiraz could stand proudly alongside the world's greatest wines. Whether you're cellaring a bottle of Grange for a milestone celebration or enjoying a glass of Bin 28 with Sunday lunch, you're participating in a legacy that changed wine history. And that, my darlings, is rather special indeed.