Biondi-Santi: The Royal Family of Brunello di Montalcino

The Inventors of an Icon

Right then, darlings, let's talk about wine royalty. Not just any old aristocratic family who happened to own a vineyard, but the absolute titans who quite literally invented one of Italy's most legendary wines: Brunello di Montalcino. The Biondi-Santi family didn't just make wine—they created a category, established a standard, and proved that Sangiovese could age for decades with the same gravitas as Bordeaux's finest. Très impressionnant, non?

When you pour a glass of Biondi-Santi Brunello, you're not simply enjoying wine; you're experiencing living history. This is the estate that showed the world what Italian wine could become when treated with obsessive care, extended aging, and an almost religious devotion to tradition. While other producers were chasing trends and modernizing their techniques, Biondi-Santi has remained brilliantly, stubbornly committed to the methods established over a century ago. The result? Wines that can outlive their makers and still taste absolutely smashing.

Based at the historic Il Greppo estate in the heart of Montalcino, Tuscany, this family has been crafting extraordinary wines since the mid-1800s. Their bottles have graced royal tables, survived world wars, and set auction records. But what makes Biondi-Santi truly special isn't just their pedigree—it's their unwavering belief that great wine requires time, patience, and respect for the vineyard. In an age of instant gratification, they're still making wines that won't reach their peak for twenty years or more. Absolute madness, and I adore them for it.

A Legacy Born from Innovation

The Biondi-Santi story begins in 1840 with Clemente Santi, a physician and viticulture pioneer who purchased the Il Greppo estate. But Clemente wasn't content to simply make wine—he wanted to push the boundaries of what Tuscan viticulture could achieve. In 1865, his wines won prestigious awards in Paris and Bordeaux, proving that Italian wine could compete on the international stage. This wasn't some rustic peasant plonk; this was serious, age-worthy wine that demanded respect.

However, it was Clemente's grandson, Ferruccio Biondi-Santi, who truly revolutionized the wine world. In 1888, Ferruccio created what is widely recognized as the first vintage of Brunello di Montalcino as we know it today. His stroke of genius? Isolating and propagating a particular clone of Sangiovese, which he called Sangiovese Grosso or BBS11 (Brunello Biondi-Santi clone 11). This clone produced smaller berries with thicker skins, resulting in wines of extraordinary concentration, structure, and aging potential.

But Ferruccio didn't stop at finding the right grapes. He also established rigorous winemaking protocols that are still followed today: extended maceration on the skins, aging in large Slavonian oak casks (botti grandi), and years of bottle aging before release. Where other Tuscan producers were making Chianti meant to be drunk within a few years, Ferruccio was crafting wines that could age for decades—and he had the bottles to prove it. His 1888, 1891, and 1925 vintages have become legendary, with bottles still drinking beautifully over a century later. C'est incroyable!

The Brunello Method: Tradition as Religion

What makes Biondi-Santi Brunello so distinctive? It's all about the method, my loves. While many modern Montalcino producers have adopted contemporary techniques—temperature-controlled fermentation, new French barriques, shorter aging periods—Biondi-Santi remains steadfastly traditional. They've been making wine the same way for over 130 years, and they're not about to change now, thank you very much.

The process begins in the vineyard with their proprietary Sangiovese Grosso clone, which is cultivated exclusively at Il Greppo. These vines produce naturally low yields, concentrating flavors and creating wines of tremendous depth. Harvest is always done by hand, with only the finest grapes selected for the Brunello and Riserva bottlings. After fermentation in temperature-controlled stainless steel tanks (one small concession to modernity), the wine undergoes extended maceration—often 20-25 days—to extract maximum color, tannin, and flavor compounds.

Then comes the aging, and this is where things get properly serious. The wine spends years in large Slavonian oak casks, those enormous old botti that allow the wine to breathe and develop without imparting overt oak flavors. For the standard Brunello, the aging requirement is already substantial by modern standards. But for the Riserva—oh darlings, the Riserva is where Biondi-Santi truly shines. These wines spend even longer in barrel and bottle before release, often not seeing the market until they're already six or seven years old. The result is a wine that demands patience but rewards it tenfold.

The Riserva: A Wine for the Ages

If you're going to splash out on Biondi-Santi—and let's be honest, you'll need to prepare your wallet for a bit of a shock—the Brunello di Montalcino Riserva is the crown jewel. This wine is only produced in exceptional vintages, and it represents the absolute pinnacle of what Montalcino can achieve. We're talking about a wine that can age for 50 years or more, developing extraordinary complexity and nuance along the way.The flavor profile of a Biondi-Santi Riserva is distinctly traditional: think wild cherry, dried herbs, tobacco leaf, leather, forest floor, and subtle spice. There's none of the jammy fruit or obvious oak you might find in more modern styles. Instead, you get elegance, finesse, and a structural integrity that feels almost architectural. The tannins are firm but refined, supporting the wine through decades of evolution. The acidity—oh, that brilliant, mouthwatering acidity—keeps everything fresh and vibrant even as the wine develops tertiary complexities.Now, about those prices. The standard Brunello di Montalcino typically runs $100-$200 USD, which is already a serious investment. But the Riserva? You're looking at $300-$600 USD for recent vintages, and significantly more for legendary years. Older vintages—particularly the iconic 1955, 1964, 1975, and 1985—can fetch $1,000-$5,000+ USD at auction. I've seen bottles of the 1891 sell for eye-watering sums that would make your head spin. But here's the thing: these wines genuinely deserve their price tags. They're not just expensive because of hype; they're expensive because they're extraordinary and incredibly rare.

Il Greppo: The Heart of Brunello

The Il Greppo estate sits at approximately 500 meters elevation on the northern slopes of Montalcino, with perfect south and southwest exposures that maximize sun exposure while maintaining good diurnal temperature variation. The soils here are a complex mix of galestro (friable schist), clay, and limestone—ideal for producing structured, mineral-driven wines with excellent aging potential.

The estate covers roughly 25 hectares of vineyard, though not all of it is dedicated to the flagship Brunello. The best parcels—those with the oldest vines and most favorable exposures—are reserved for the Riserva. These vines can be 25-50+ years old, with deep root systems that tap into the mineral-rich subsoils and produce grapes of extraordinary concentration and complexity. The estate practices sustainable viticulture with minimal intervention, allowing the terroir to express itself fully in the finished wine.

Walking through Il Greppo feels like stepping back in time. The historic cellars, the ancient botti, the meticulous hand-sorting tables—everything speaks to a philosophy that values tradition and craftsmanship over efficiency and modernity. This isn't a showpiece winery designed for Instagram; it's a working estate focused entirely on producing the best possible wine. Très authentique, and all the more special for it.

Decanting, Serving, and Cellaring

Right, let's talk about actually drinking this stuff, because Biondi-Santi Brunello—particularly the Riserva—requires a bit of special handling. First off, decanting is absolutely essential. These wines throw substantial sediment as they age, and they need significant air exposure to open up properly. For a young Brunello (under 10 years), I'd suggest decanting 2-3 hours before serving. For older vintages, be more gentle—decant just 30-60 minutes before drinking to avoid over-oxidation.

Serving temperature matters enormously. These are not wines to be served at room temperature (unless you live in a drafty castle). Aim for 16-18°C (60-65°F)—cool enough to preserve the wine's elegance and acidity, warm enough to allow the complex aromatics to express themselves. Use large Burgundy-style glasses with generous bowls to give the wine room to breathe and develop in the glass.

As for cellaring, Biondi-Santi Brunello is a long-term proposition. The standard Brunello will drink well from 10-30+ years, while the Riserva can easily age for 30-50+ years in proper conditions. Store horizontally in a cool (12-15°C), dark, humid (60-70% humidity) environment with minimal vibration. These wines evolve slowly and gracefully, developing extraordinary tertiary complexities—truffle, forest floor, dried flowers, cigar box—that make older bottles utterly captivating.

The Legacy and Influence

It's impossible to overstate Biondi-Santi's influence on Montalcino and Italian wine as a whole. Before Ferruccio Biondi-Santi, Montalcino was a sleepy hilltown producing mostly white wine and simple table reds. Today, it's one of Italy's most prestigious appellations, with Brunello commanding prices that rival top Bordeaux and Burgundy. That transformation is directly attributable to the Biondi-Santi family's vision and commitment to quality.

Their approach—extended aging, traditional large oak, minimal intervention—established a template that many other Montalcino producers still follow. While the region has certainly seen stylistic diversity emerge (with some producers adopting more modern, international styles), the traditionalist camp remains strong, and they all owe a debt to Biondi-Santi's pioneering work. The estate proved that Sangiovese could produce wines of world-class stature, capable of aging for decades and developing extraordinary complexity.

In 2016, the estate was purchased by French insurance company EPI, but the family remains involved in management, and the winemaking philosophy remains unchanged. If anything, the new ownership has provided resources for vineyard improvements and expanded production capacity while respecting the traditional methods that made Biondi-Santi legendary. The wines continue to win critical acclaim, with recent vintages receiving scores in the high 90s from top critics.

Fun Fact: The 1955 Riserva

The 1955 Biondi-Santi Brunello Riserva is widely considered one of the greatest Italian wines ever produced. This legendary vintage has been tasted and retasted over the decades, with bottles still showing remarkably well even at 70+ years old. In 2015, at a special 60th anniversary tasting, the wine was described as "ethereal," with flavors of dried cherry, rose petals, tobacco, and truffle. Bottles of the 1955 Riserva have sold at auction for over $10,000 USD, making it one of the most collectible and expensive Italian wines in existence. If you ever get the chance to taste it—even a small pour—consider yourself extraordinarily fortunate, darlings. It's a once-in-a-lifetime experience that perfectly encapsulates why Biondi-Santi remains Italian wine royalty.

The Bottom Line

Biondi-Santi represents everything I adore about traditional Italian winemaking: unwavering commitment to quality, respect for terroir, patience in the cellar, and wines that reward those willing to wait. These are not instant-gratification bottles. They're investments—both financial and emotional—that pay dividends over decades. When you open a mature Biondi-Santi Riserva, you're not just drinking wine; you're experiencing history, craftsmanship, and the pure expression of one of the world's great vineyard sites.

Yes, they're expensive. Yes, they require patience and proper cellaring. Yes, you need to decant them and serve them with the right food at the right temperature. But for those willing to make the effort, Biondi-Santi Brunello offers rewards that few other wines can match. This is wine made for contemplation, for celebration, for sharing with people you love on occasions that matter. It's wine that connects you to centuries of Tuscan tradition and shows you what Sangiovese can achieve when given the time and care it deserves.

If you're new to serious Italian wine, Biondi-Santi might not be the best place to start—the prices are steep, and the wines require some understanding to fully appreciate. But if you're already familiar with Brunello and want to experience the absolute pinnacle, or if you're looking for a special bottle to lay down for a significant anniversary, Biondi-Santi should be at the top of your list. These are wines that will outlive us all, still drinking beautifully long after we're gone. Rather poetic, really.

Cheers,

Sophie