Rioja Rosado (Spain) brings that Spanish flair – juicy, fruity, with bright acidity. Tempranillo and Garnacha grapes, medium pink color, strawberry and cherry flavors. Utterly delightful with tapas.
Orange Wine: The Ancient Technique Making a Bonkers Comeback
Orange Wine: Not a Fruit, Darling – It's a Technique
Let's clear this up straight away: orange wine contains exactly zero oranges. The name comes from the deep amber-orange color these wines develop, which happens when white wine grapes are fermented with their skins, seeds, and sometimes stems – exactly like red wine production.
It's also called "skin-contact white wine" or "amber wine," and it's bloody brilliant. You get the aromatics and acidity of white wine combined with the texture, tannins, and complexity of red wine. It's a wine that makes you think, that challenges your palate, and that pairs with foods you'd never dream of serving with conventional white or red wine.
The technique itself is ancient – thousands of years old – but it nearly disappeared during the industrial winemaking era when clean, filtered, predictable wines became the norm. Now it's experiencing a massive renaissance, especially among natural wine producers and adventurous drinkers who want something genuinely different.
Ancient Georgia: The Birthplace of Orange Wine
If you want to understand orange wine, you've got to start in Georgia (the country, not the US state). Georgians have been making wine in clay vessels called qvevri for over 8,000 years – this is literally the oldest winemaking tradition on Earth, and it's still going strong.
Here's how traditional qvevri winemaking works: Large egg-shaped clay vessels (ranging from 100 to 3,000+ liters) are buried underground up to their necks. White grapes – typically indigenous varieties like Rkatsiteli or Mtsvane – are crushed and the entire mess (juice, skins, seeds, sometimes stems) goes into the qvevri.
The vessel is sealed with a stone lid and covered with earth. Fermentation happens spontaneously with wild yeasts, and the wine macerates with all the grape solids for anywhere from several months to a full year. The underground burial keeps temperatures stable (around 14-15°C / 57-59°F), allowing for slow, gentle extraction.
No temperature control, no additions, no stirring – just time, patience, and trust in the process. The clay is slightly porous, allowing tiny amounts of oxygen exchange, which prevents reduction while maintaining freshness. It's winemaking at its most elemental, and the results are absolutely extraordinary.
UNESCO Heritage: Georgian qvevri winemaking was added to UNESCO's Intangible Cultural Heritage list in 2013, recognizing its historical and cultural significance. Très cool, non?
Extended Maceration: Coaxing Magic from White Grape Skins
Modern orange wine production (whether in qvevri, concrete eggs, oak barrels, or stainless steel) is all about extended maceration – keeping white grape skins in contact with fermenting juice for days, weeks, or even months.
This is the complete opposite of conventional white wine production, where grapes are pressed immediately and juice fermented clean. With orange wine, we're extracting phenolic compounds (tannins, flavonoids, pigments) that normally stay locked in the discarded skins.
What Happens During Extended Skin Contact:
Color development: Pigments in white grape skins (carotenoids, flavonoids) gradually leach into the juice, creating colors from pale gold to deep amber-orange. Oxidation also plays a role, browning the wine like a cut apple.
Tannin extraction: Grape skins and seeds release tannins, giving orange wine a textural grip completely absent from normal white wine. This can range from subtle astringency to serious, mouth-coating structure.
Aromatic complexity: Extended maceration extracts aromatic precursors that develop into complex, sometimes funky aromatics – think dried apricot, nuts, honey, tea, spices, even savory notes.
Phenolic bitterness: The same compounds that give structure can also impart pleasant bitterness, similar to good tea or hoppy beer. It's a key characteristic of orange wine.
Maceration length varies wildly depending on the winemaker's style and the grape variety. Some producers macerate for just a few days to get subtle skin contact character. Others go for 6-12 months for full-on, intense orange wines with serious tannins and oxidative notes.
Temperature management during maceration is crucial. Too cold and extraction stalls; too warm and you risk volatile acidity and aggressive tannins. Most orange wine producers aim for moderate temperatures (15-22°C / 59-72°F) and minimal intervention, allowing the wine to develop at its own pace.
Tannin Extraction: Giving White Wine a Backbone
The most remarkable thing about orange wine is the texture. Conventional white wine is all about acidity and fruit – it's refreshing, it's crisp, but it doesn't have much grip. Orange wine, on the other hand, has tannins that give it structure, weight, and aging potential.
These tannins come from grape skins, seeds, and sometimes stems (whole-cluster fermentation is common in orange wine production). The longer the maceration, the more tannin extraction – but it's not just about quantity. The type and quality of tannins depend on gentle handling and time.
Well-made orange wine has fine-grained, silky tannins that add texture without overwhelming the palate. Poorly made orange wine can be harshly bitter and astringent. The difference comes down to winemaker skill, grape quality, and patience during extraction.
This tannic structure makes orange wine incredibly food-friendly. It can handle dishes that would crush a normal white wine – think grilled fish, roasted vegetables, mushroom dishes, even lighter meat preparations. It's the Swiss Army knife of wine pairing, honestly.
Orange Wine & The Natural Wine Movement
Orange wine and the natural wine movement are intimately connected, though not all orange wines are "natural" and not all natural wines are orange. The philosophy overlap is significant: minimal intervention, wild yeast fermentation, no (or minimal) sulfites, no fining or filtration.
Many pioneering orange wine producers – Josko Gravner in Friuli, Stanko Radikon in Slovenia, Frank Cornelissen in Sicily – are also natural wine icons. They've embraced extended maceration as part of a broader commitment to traditional, hands-off winemaking that lets terroir and vintage express themselves fully.
This connection means orange wines often have characteristics that polarize drinkers: cloudiness from no filtration, slight effervescence from trapped CO2, funky aromatics from wild yeasts, oxidative notes from minimal sulfite use. Some people find these qualities thrilling and authentic. Others find them off-putting.
My take? Orange wine isn't for everyone, and that's perfectly fine. But if you're curious about wine that challenges conventions, that connects you to ancient traditions, and that pairs brilliantly with modern, globally-inspired cuisine – orange wine is absolutely worth exploring.
Starting point: Try an entry-level orange wine from Friuli or Slovenia with 7-14 days of skin contact before diving into the intense, year-long maceration styles. Build up your tannin tolerance, darlings!
The world's oldest known wine (8,000 years old, found in Georgia) was an orange wine made in qvevri. So when hipsters claim they "discovered" orange wine, you can tell them they're about 8 millennia late to the party.
Orange wine's resurgence began in the 1990s in Friuli, northeastern Italy, when winemakers like Josko Gravner traveled to Georgia and brought the technique back. Now regions from California to Australia to South Africa are making brilliant orange wines.
The term "orange wine" only became common in the 2000s – before that, these wines were just called "skin-contact whites" or "amber wines." British wine importer David Harvey is credited with popularizing the catchier "orange wine" name.