Howell Mountain: Napa's Sky-High Icon of Power and Prestige

Above the Fog, Beyond the Ordinary

Right, let's have a proper chat about Howell Mountain, shall we? This isn't your valley floor Napa experience—oh no, darling. This is where the serious wine lovers trek up winding mountain roads to discover what happens when you grow grapes quite literally above the clouds. And trust me, once you've tasted a proper Howell Mountain Cabernet, you'll understand why collectors go absolutely bonkers for these bottles.

Picture this: You're climbing up the eastern mountains of Napa Valley, leaving the tourist crowds and tasting room queues far below. The air gets cooler, the views become spectacular, and suddenly you're standing at 1,400 to 2,600 feet above sea level—above the fog line that blankets the valley floor each morning. This elevation isn't just for the Instagram-worthy panoramas (though those are brilliant). It's the secret to some of the most powerful, age-worthy wines in all of California.

What makes Howell Mountain truly special? It's a combination of factors that would make any terroir-obsessed wine geek weak at the knees. The volcanic soils—remnants of ancient eruptions—provide brilliant drainage and force vines to dig deep for nutrients. The elevation means intense sunshine during the day (we're talking proper California rays without that pesky fog interference), followed by dramatically cool nights that preserve acidity. And because these mountain vineyards are often steep and rocky, yields are naturally low. Translation? Concentrated, powerful fruit that translates into wines with serious structure and intensity.

And here's the kicker that makes wine history buffs like myself get rather excited: Howell Mountain was the very first sub-appellation designated within Napa Valley back in 1983. Before "sub-AVA" became the wine world's favourite buzzword, Howell Mountain was already proving that not all Napa Cabernet is created equal. The pioneers up here understood something fundamental—great wine isn't just about the valley name on the label; it's about the specific dirt, elevation, and microclimate where those grapes grow.

A Rather Brilliant History: From Pioneers to Prestige

The story of Howell Mountain reads like a proper California wine saga, complete with 19th-century pioneers, near-extinction, and triumphant renaissance. Back in the 1880s, when most sensible folks were planting vineyards on the easier valley floor, a few intrepid souls looked at these steep, rocky mountains and thought, "Brilliant! Let's plant grapes there." And bless them, because they were onto something spectacular.

The mountain became home to several notable wineries in those early days. Jean Brun established what would become the Burgess Cellars site in 1876, while William Bourne created the lovely Angwin estate. These weren't gentleman farmers playing at winemaking—they were serious producers who recognized that the mountain's challenging conditions could yield extraordinary wines. By the late 1800s, Howell Mountain wines were earning awards at international competitions and fetching premium prices. Rather sophisticated for the Wild West era, wouldn't you say?

Then came Prohibition—that terribly misguided bit of American legislation that nearly killed the wine industry stone dead. When it was finally repealed in 1933, most of Howell Mountain's vineyards had reverted to forest. The mountain went quiet for decades, with only a few old-timers remembering when those slopes produced world-class wine.

The modern renaissance began in the 1960s and '70s when a new generation of winemakers started replanting the mountain. Randy Dunn, who'd cut his teeth at Caymus, purchased property on Howell Mountain in 1978 and began making Cabernet that was so powerful, so structured, so utterly different from valley floor wines that it turned heads throughout the wine world. His wines proved that Howell Mountain wasn't just historically significant—it was bloody brilliant for making age-worthy Cabernet.

That pioneering spirit led to the 1983 AVA designation—a watershed moment that recognized Howell Mountain as genuinely distinct from the rest of Napa. Since then, the mountain has attracted vintners who appreciate the challenges and rewards of mountain viticulture. These aren't dilettantes looking for easy profits; they're serious producers willing to work steep slopes, accept lower yields, and craft wines that express the mountain's unique character.

The Terroir: What Makes Mountain Magic

Let's get properly geeky about why Howell Mountain wines taste the way they do, shall we? It all starts with that elevation. When you're 1,400 to 2,600 feet up, you're literally above the marine fog that rolls in from San Francisco Bay each evening. Valley floor vineyards wake up shrouded in fog that doesn't burn off until mid-morning. Howell Mountain? They're greeting the sunrise with clear skies and immediate warmth. This means more hours of photosynthesis, more sugar development, and thicker grape skins packed with tannins and color compounds.

But here's where it gets clever: those same clear skies that bake the vineyards during the day allow heat to radiate away rapidly at night. The temperature swings can be dramatic—30 degrees Fahrenheit or more between day and night. This diurnal shift is absolutely crucial for maintaining acidity while ripening fruit. You get the physiological ripeness (developed tannins, complex flavors) without losing the freshness that keeps wines balanced and age-worthy. C'est magnifique!

Then there's the soil—and what soil it is. Howell Mountain sits atop volcanic bedrock from ancient eruptions. The soils are primarily volcanic ash, tufa, and decomposed rock—extremely well-drained and relatively infertile. In wine terms, that's absolutely brilliant. Vines have to work harder, digging deep for water and nutrients, which naturally limits yields and concentrates flavors. The volcanic minerals also contribute a distinctive character to the wines—a kind of earthy, stony quality that sommeliers love to wax lyrical about.

The topography deserves mention too. These aren't gentle rolling hills—they're proper steep slopes that make vineyard work genuinely challenging. Many sites are too steep for tractors, requiring hand labor for everything from pruning to harvest. The slopes also provide excellent air drainage, reducing frost risk and disease pressure. And with various aspects—north-facing, south-facing, east and west—winemakers can choose sites that match their stylistic goals.

The Wines: Power, Structure, and Age-Worthiness

Right, let's talk about what you're actually going to taste when you pop open a Howell Mountain bottle. These wines are not for the faint of heart, darlings. They're big, bold, and built to last decades. When you taste a Howell Mountain Cabernet next to a valley floor example, the difference is immediately apparent—and rather thrilling if you're into wines with proper backbone.

Cabernet Sauvignon: The Mountain King

Howell Mountain Cabernet is all about intensity and structure. We're talking deep, almost opaque purple-black color that stains the glass. On the nose, you'll find concentrated black fruits—cassis, blackberry, black cherry—alongside notes of graphite, crushed rock, mountain herbs, and dark chocolate. Some bottles show lovely violet florals, while others lean into more savory territory with tobacco, leather, and dried herbs.

The palate is where these wines truly flex their muscles. The tannins are substantial—firm, chewy, and structured like a well-built château. This isn't softness and approachability; it's power and longevity. The acidity is bright and lifting, preventing all that concentration from feeling heavy. Flavors mirror the aromatics but with added layers—espresso, dark cocoa, wild blackberries, minerals, and often a distinctive dusty, volcanic quality that screams "mountain wine."

Young Howell Mountain Cabernet can be quite firm, even austere. These wines demand patience. Give them 5-10 years in the cellar, and they transform into something magnificent—the tannins integrate, secondary flavors develop (truffle, forest floor, cedar), and the wine achieves a harmonious complexity that makes wine collectors go weak at the knees. Some bottles age gracefully for 20-30 years or more. Proper investment pieces, these.

Zinfandel: Old Vines, Big Personality

While Cabernet gets most of the glory, Howell Mountain Zinfandel is absolutely smashing and often represents better value. Many mountain sites harbor ancient Zinfandel vines—some planted in the early 1900s—that produce tiny clusters of intensely flavored berries. These aren't jammy, overripe fruit bombs; they're structured, complex wines with genuine personality.

Expect wild berry flavors (blackberry, boysenberry, raspberry), black pepper spice, dried herbs, and often a lovely brambly quality. The mountain elevation keeps alcohol levels more restrained than lowland Zin (though they're still robust at 14.5-15.5%), and the acidity is noticeably brighter. These wines have the power and concentration to age beautifully for 10-15 years, developing fascinating tertiary notes of dried fruit, leather, and earth.

The Producers: Icons and Artisans

Howell Mountain attracts a special breed of winemaker—folks who appreciate challenge, respect tradition, and aren't afraid to make wines that require patience. Here are some producers whose bottles you absolutely must try:

Dunn Vineyards

Randy Dunn is the godfather of modern Howell Mountain Cabernet. His wines are legendary for their power, structure, and ability to age for decades. The Howell Mountain bottling is pure, uncompromising mountain Cabernet—firm tannins, bright acidity, and flavors that develop extraordinary complexity with time. These wines aren't easy when young, but give them 10+ years and prepare to be amazed. Expect to invest $150-$250+ per bottle, and know you're getting one of California's true cult classics.

La Jota Vineyard Co.

With estate vineyards dating back to the 1890s, La Jota produces both brilliant Cabernet and outstanding old-vine Zinfandel. Their wines show classic mountain character—concentrated, structured, mineral-driven—but with a touch more approachability than some peers. The Cabernet Sauvignon ($100-$150) is consistently excellent, while the Howell Mountain Zinfandel ($60-$80) offers exceptional value from century-old vines.

O'Shaughnessy Estate Winery

Betty O'Shaughnessy's mountain estate produces Cabernet that balances power with elegance—no small feat. The wines show gorgeous purity of fruit alongside classic mountain structure and minerality. While still substantial and age-worthy, there's an attention to balance that makes these wines more approachable than some mountain bruisers. Bottles range from $120-$200, and they're absolutely worth seeking out.

Outpost

This relatively newer producer has quickly established a reputation for exceptional mountain Cabernet. The wines are dense, powerful, and structured for long aging, with brilliant expression of volcanic terroir. Limited production means these bottles ($150-$300) often require mailing list access, but they're spectacular examples of what Howell Mountain can achieve.

Other Notable Producers:

• Cade Estate - Modern approach with certified organic/biodynamic farming
• Burgess Cellars - Historic property making elegant mountain Cabernet
• Robert Craig - Focused exclusively on mountain fruit, exceptional quality
• Ladera Vineyards - Organic farming, beautiful expression of place

Food Pairing: Matching Mountain Power

Howell Mountain wines demand food with substance and flavor intensity. These aren't delicate sippers for light salads—they're proper dinner wines that shine alongside rich, flavorful dishes. Here's how to make magic happen:

Grilled Ribeye with Herb Butter

This is the classic pairing, and for good reason. A well-marbled ribeye, cooked over high heat to develop a proper char, matches the wine's power beautifully. The fat content softens those firm tannins, while the caramelized meat flavors echo the wine's dark fruit and roasted notes. Top with compound butter infused with rosemary and garlic, and you've got a pairing that'll make you weak at the knees. The wine's acidity cuts through the richness, while its structure stands up to the meat's intensity. Absolute perfection.

Braised Short Ribs with Root Vegetables

The long, slow braise creates incredibly tender meat with deep, savory flavors that harmonize brilliantly with aged Howell Mountain Cabernet. The wine's earthy, secondary notes (leather, forest floor, truffle) complement the dish's savory richness, while the bright acidity balances the unctuous sauce. Root vegetables add sweetness that plays nicely with the wine's dark fruit, and the whole combination is utterly divine. This is autumn and winter comfort food elevated to proper sophistication.

Aged Manchego with Quince Paste and Marcona Almonds

For a lighter option—or a brilliant cheese course—aged Manchego is spot on with Howell Mountain Cabernet. The cheese's nutty, crystalline complexity mirrors the wine's savory notes, while its fat content gentles those firm tannins. The quince paste adds fruity sweetness that echoes the wine's dark berry flavors, and Marcona almonds contribute richness and a lovely textural contrast. This pairing works equally well as an appetizer or a proper European-style cheese course after dinner. Très chic, darling.

Collecting and Cellaring: Investment-Worthy Beauties

If you're building a serious wine collection, Howell Mountain Cabernet deserves a prominent place in your cellar. These wines are textbook examples of bottles that improve dramatically with age, making them proper investment pieces. Here's what you need to know:

First, patience is essential. Young Howell Mountain Cabernet can be quite firm—all structure and potential without showing its full glory. While some modern examples are more approachable in youth, the classic mountain style really needs 5-10 years minimum to start singing. The best bottles can age gracefully for 20-30 years or more, developing extraordinary complexity.

Storage conditions matter tremendously for wines of this caliber. You'll want consistent cool temperatures (55-58°F is ideal), moderate humidity (60-70%), darkness, and minimal vibration. If you don't have a proper wine cellar, invest in a quality wine refrigerator—these bottles are worth protecting.

Vintage variation is pronounced on Howell Mountain due to the elevation and exposure. Warm vintages produce powerful, opulent wines, while cooler years yield more structured, elegant examples. Outstanding recent vintages include 2013, 2015, 2016, and 2018—all showing beautiful balance of power and finesse. The 2019 and 2020 vintages are also shaping up brilliantly.

Value-wise, Howell Mountain Cabernet sits in the premium category ($100-$300+), but you're getting wines that rival (and often exceed) the quality of much pricier Napa cult Cabs. The Zinfandels offer better value for everyday drinking ($60-$100) while still delivering mountain character and aging potential. For collectors on a budget, look for smaller producers or second labels from top estates.

Visiting Howell Mountain: The Journey Matters

Visiting Howell Mountain is genuinely special—and I don't say that lightly, darlings. This isn't the Napa you see from Highway 29 with its palatial tasting rooms and tour buses. Getting to Howell Mountain requires commitment—winding roads, steep climbs, and often appointments made well in advance. But bloody hell, it's worth it.

The drive itself is part of the experience. As you climb higher, the valley spreads below you in a patchwork of vineyards and rolling hills. The air gets cooler and fresher. You leave the crowds behind. By the time you arrive at a mountaintop winery, you understand viscerally why these wines taste different—you're quite literally in a different world.

Most Howell Mountain wineries operate by appointment only, which means tastings are intimate and educational. You'll often meet the winemaker or proprietor, tour steep hillside vineyards, and taste through library vintages that demonstrate the wines' aging potential. It's wine tourism at its most authentic and rewarding.

Pro tip: Visit in autumn if possible. The harvest season on Howell Mountain runs later than the valley floor (September through October), and watching mountain fruit come in is magical. The vineyards are stunning in fall colors, the energy is palpable, and you'll likely taste fermenting wines alongside finished bottles.

Fun Facts and Wine Nerd Trivia

The Verdict: Mountain Majesty in a Bottle

So there you have it, darlings—Howell Mountain in all its elevated glory. These aren't wines for casual Tuesday evenings (unless you're living rather brilliantly). They're serious bottles that demand attention, patience, and proper food pairings. But when you open a well-aged Howell Mountain Cabernet alongside a perfectly grilled steak, you'll understand why collectors obsess over these wines.

What makes Howell Mountain truly special isn't just the elevation or volcanic soils or historic pedigree—though all those factors matter. It's the uncompromising commitment to expressing place. These winemakers aren't chasing trends or trying to make crowd-pleasing wines. They're crafting powerful, structured, age-worthy bottles that speak unmistakably of their mountain origins.

If you're new to mountain wines, start with a Howell Mountain Zinfandel—they're more approachable and offer excellent value. Once you've experienced that mountain intensity and structure, move on to the Cabernets. Buy a few bottles, cellar them properly, and open one every couple of years to track the evolution. It's a wine education that's absolutely worth the investment.

And if you ever have the chance to visit? Take it. The journey up that mountain, the stunning views, the intimate tastings—it's wine tourism at its most rewarding. You'll come away with a deeper appreciation for what elevation, terroir, and human dedication can achieve together.